ROSENBERG
STREETSTYLE
Luis Buchinho fashion show
Luis Buchinho in general:
Portuguese fashion designer born in Setubal, 1969. He was honored Best Female Collection Mode Lisboa in 1999. Won Best Fashion Designer of the year, 2010 and 2012 at the Fashion Awards Portugal. He also won Best Fashion Designer at the 16th Globos de Ouro in 2011 and was nominated for the same award the following year. The brand has been on the market for 20 years. The brand has existed in Portuguese fashion since 1996 and has been a constant at Paris Fashion Week since 2009. The marketing of his brand begun in 1992 in Portugal, today he sells his collection in 17 shops in Portugal, to of which is his own.
Venue and show:
The overall aesthetics of the venue was industrial, cold and geometrical. On the lefthand of the runway, a outlined squared box with lighting was installed as a center and focuspoint of the show - supposed to reflect the ocean. It was obvious that a effort was made to match the venue with the clothes - which with most of the pieces was accomplished - except for a range of leggings and prints which, did not reflect the intended feel of the collection. The set up and the collection didn't fall far from what we expected. A nice but not overwhelming collection when having his 20 years of experience in the back of our minds. Here is our favourite looks from the collection.
STREETSTYLE INTERVIEW
INSHADE
Founder of the brand: The Russian designer and stylist Maria Smirnova who graduated from Moscow State Textile University in 2000.
Focus: Minimalistic and sophisticated clothing for women. Uses materials as silk, cashmere, leather and transparent cotton jersey.
Carrier in years:
2003-2004: INSHADE participated in several art festivals and fairs
2004-2007: Permanent members of the Russian Fashion Week
2007-2008: Participated in Yekaterinburg and St. Petersburg fashion weeks
2009: Participated in the Collection Premiere Düsseldorf
2010: Aurora Fashion Week
2011: INSHADE won the Grand Prix in the international design competition clothing and accessories for people with disabilities Bezgraniz Couture international fashion and accessory award.
Interview
When did you start your own label?
I started my label in 2002 and before that I went to Moscow State Textile University.
How did the company develop?
With our own money and sources. – We are only five people so it’s a small company.
Were there any challenges starting your own label?
Yes there were many difficulties starting my own label, as there always is. – But I had many shows and performances as an artist, so that is how I financed it in the beginning. I was also working as a stylist – So I had friends in fashion, but it is never easy.
Do you have different friends, you can use for styling, photo shoots etc?
Yes and I am also a fashion tutor in a fashion school in Moscow, so I have a lot of help from my students- for backstage etc.
What is your main inspiration and also for this collection?
I love seeing and feeling art – you could put me in a corner or a room by myself and I could come up with ideas for a whole new collection. This collection is mainly a funny collection about a strange party, new years, a circus – and also based on contemporary projects of an Russian artist.
Do you have any thoughts on sustainability?
I love sustainability and I try to use silk, wool, cotton that is organic fabrics. Only a few items with synthetics.
Are you doing any shows for fashion week?
I did Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Dusseldorf.
Do you have any ambitions for the future?
Yes of course, new clients, new contacts, press and just move forward and stay in Paris to see everything.
JACQUEMUS
Simon Porte Jacquemus was born January 16th, 1990 in Salon de Provence. He is the French designer of the company and brand Jaqcemus.
The love of a gypsy seems to be the headline of jacquemus latest show in paris which was held in a big warehouse. The catwalk went from corner to corner across the big warehouse with seatings along the podium.
The collection was feminin and the silhouettes where symmetric with inspiration from several decades such as the 20s/30s and 50s. With exaggerated proportions. Inspiration taken from the 50s in shape of broad shoulders and small waits and inspiration from the 20s in form of dropped waits. Mainly the colour pop came from the bags - the bags where rectangular with half circles as handles from which a chain hung creating the illusion of a full circle. The overall feeling of the pieces, venue and music was dark with a red thread through all aspects.
